Homeward Bound

This will be the last instalment in the blog - just to let you know how we got home! On Sunday we travelled by train to Lunels which was an interesting experience (see Shirley sitting amidst the bikes which were hanging on the train). After this we cycled to stay with our friends Yvonne and Graham Paddy in their beautiful townhouse in Aigues Mortes. This is a wonderful old walled city in the Camargue. We motored round the canals in their boat and even saw two Camargue horses in full flight. We are staying with the Paddys until Tuesday morning but on Monday we collected a hire car from Montpelier airport. We were trying to drive to Roscoff and take the ferry across from there to Plymouth where our car is but no car hire company will allow us so we are driving to Le Havre on Tuesday and getting the ferry from there to Portsmouth on Wednesday and David will collect us from there.

Le Somail to the Mediterranean

This morning we enjoyed the company of a couple of English cyclists along with another six French walkers who were all staying at the same chambre d'hote and we spent breakfast altogether at the one long table. the weather forecast had been appalling for Friday and Saturday but the only rain we had was during Friday night much to our relief. We set off along the canal and took photos of the picturesque village we had stayed at. The path deteriorated so we headed for the big road. it was quite nice to be in the open countryside again and in the country areas the roads are full of the machines harvesting the grapes. Met a nice young belgian couple who were cycling at a viaduct at Beziers and we took each others photos. We stopped for lunch at a shaded bench at a lock along the canal and low and behold the next bench screened by the trees were the English couple we had sat next to at breakfast. Our final lunch finished, we set off to the Med! We arrived at the Mediterranean about 3.30 pm and took some photos. We then went to book into our hotel which we had reserved two days ago only tobe told that there was no reservation!!! What an anticlimax. We then cycled back into Agde city and luckily the tourist information was open. We then managed to get a very nice little city hotel near the station which will be very handy for us tomorrow as we set off to visit our friends, Graham and Yvonne Paddy at Aigue Morts for a couple of days relaxation and sorting out our return journey.
The journey is over and we have both enjoyed the experience enormously including grazed knees, bruised legs and weak wrists. We've done a lot of cycling but we have also done a lot of laughing. The blog has been good fun for us to do and to have all the comments you have made has kept us amused whilst we travelled along.
Distance: 74.0k TOTAL DISTANCE: 1196.4K

Till the next time..............!

Carcassonne to Le Somail

After rest and washing completed we hit the road, or should I say the canal path, again. At this part of the canal the path is very poor. We have learned from our fellow French cyclists that we keep meeting that this is because the citizens of Carcassone in 1669 looked down their noses at the commercial venture of the Canal du Midi and forced the canal to be built away to the north of the city. Something they have regretted ever since. The paths improve with little stalls at most of the locks selling the local produce and cold drinks which we enjoyed. We reached our chambre d'hote for the night just before the predicted rain started.Had a delightful meal in a very small and very busy restaurant. Photos today include shirley coming down some stairs specially designed for bikes and although Billy says she can walk on water here she is crossing a run off.
Distance: 64.7k

A day in Carcassonne

Dirty washing collected which was 99% of clothing and taken to laundrette, only to find the first two were closed but luckily another customer arrived with her loads and she beckoned us to follow her to the other end of the city. An hour later, washing all done, we set off to visit the mediaeval city of Carcassone. This was very interesting and had numerous shops to keep Shirley busy dashing in an out of doorways but unable to carry anything she couldn't make any purchases!! Afternoon spent in modern part of city and managed to get camera charged so when we go out for dinner this evening to the mediaeval part of the city we will take some photos to add to the blog. Quiet day compared with most and it actually rained but still quite warm.
Distance: 0 k

Villefranche de Lauragais to Carcassonne

As we started today we were aware of how quickly the Canal's vista changes as we cycle south. From broad paths with many joggers, Tour de France type cyclists and walkers to what we have today which is narrow, very bumpy and in places difficut cycling route and very few other people. that is until you reach a lock where there is usually a boat going through, people and sometimes even cars. On the odd occasion there is a small cafe which is always welcome. We stopped for coffee at Castelnaudary (photo) and bought our provisions for lunch. The people we have met today have all originated from Scotland; a couple of cyclists from Dundee, a couple of very fit young men from Stonehaven and two couples from new Zealand one of whom originated from Scotland. All this came about by Billy having a Scottish sticker at the back of his bag! Today's milestone was our passing 1000 k mark (see photo). We are now in Carcassonne where we intend to stay tomorrow and have a rest day and hopefully we will get our washing done.
Distance: 72.1k

Grrisolles to Villefranche de Lauragais

Today we had our first view of the Pyrenes mountains which were ranged along the southern horizon as we left the Fig Farm. Before long we were back on the Canal du Midi heading south to Toulouse city centre where we had an appointment to meet Guler, Sengul's sister who has lived in France for the last seven years. Toulouse is a beautiful city but we did get a bit lost cycling in from the Canal and ended up having to carry the bikes up two flights of steps!! We reached city centre in time to meet with Gerul who only speaks French and Turkish. Despite us not speaking any Turkish and limited French we had an enjoyable couple of hours with her and her beautiful little girl Beritan.

We then headed back to the Canal and continued through very attractive countryside. One couple we kept overtaking and then they overtook us when we stopped were an English man with his French wife. He was convinced Shirley had an engine on her bike as you could only go at that speed with an engine. He didn't realise what a powerful combination Carla and Shirley are. Reached our hotel for night. Hoped to get some washing done but no laundrette in town - maybe tomorrow.
Distance: 75.4 Distance of journey to date:964.7k

Agen to Grisolles

We started the day by travelling on our first N road which was quite an experience on a Monday morning leaving a large city but we needed to cross the river. Within minutes we were on a very quiet country road running alongside the river Garonne. We rejoined the Canal du Midi just south of Agen. Our coffee break was in Valence d'Agen. These breaks are usually in scruffy old bars but today was the most superb upmarket steakhouse and cafe. Just to show how posh it was it had a chaize longue at the rear of the building. We arrived in Montech in early afternoon to discover the tourist Information office was closed for the day - Monday seems a bit like Sunday! Fortunately we had a number to call for a chambre d'hote in the country. On arriving at The Fig Farm at Grisolles (our abode for the night) we were warmly greeted with beer and soft drinks and once the son of the farmer realised we were Scottish he showed us all his scrap books of his journeys to Scotland. All we really wanted was a bath but they were so kind and welcoming. usual Monday night -no restaurants open so we ended up having pizza and wine in a street cafe. They gave us a basket of figs to enjoy in our room (wondered if we would be able to leave the room the next day!)
Distance: 88.5k

Tonneins to Agen

Set off on a cloudy overcast morning to the Canal du Midi (our path for the next few days). As it was Sunday we had pre-booked a hotel Agen so we knew we only had a short distance to travel and would then be able to enjoy a leisurely lunch before France shuts up for the rest of today. The sun came out as we cycled along the banks of the canal amongst joggers and other cyclists. Billy was wearing a t shirt with CANADA across the front so enjoyed conversation with a pretty young cyclist he met who thought she had come across a fellow Canadian as she came from Vancouver. Needless to say she soon found out our connections with Vancouver and that we were in fact Scottish. To get into Agen the canal crosses on a viaduct 30' above the River Garonne. Eventually we found a delightful restaurant where we could enjoy a leisurely sunday lunch and were able to discuss cycling with six other (elderly) British cyclists (we're not the only crazy ones!) - see photos of vehicles parked outside the restaurant! Made our way through the city to our hotel on the outskirts of Agen.
Distance: 59.8k

Duras to Tonneins

After a great meal and night in the hotel at Duras (the same chef as 11 years ago) the following morning we headed to the local bike shop and purchased a new front basket for Carla. The other one had been bashed about a bit with falls. This new attachment should prevent further damage. It was a delight to set off from Duras as we did not have the millions of black flying ants which yesterday seemed like a rainstorm heading straight our way (not pleasant). En route we stopped for a glass of lemonade in a quaint little village (see photo of town hall). We reached Tonniens by lunch time and picnicked by the river before visiting the tourist information which,thankfully,on a saturday was open and just managed to get accommodation at the last chambre d'hote or hotel in the area. In the afternoon we went to the local town fete which gave us some ideas for future dancing (see photo)! We then crossed the river Garonne (another milestone). Spent night in lovely large country house and were again driven to and from the local restaurant situated at bank of Canal de Midi. Wonderful meal with wine - 30 euros for two of us. There are still a few bargains to be had in France!
Distance: 62.46k

Bordeaux to Duras

Bordeaux was a very beautiful city to spend a day in with many sights to see and lovely shops and eating places. We travelled in and out by tram and were escorted around by our chambre d'hote hosts (see photo of us all at house). On leaving them this foggy morning we cycled to join a cycle route which had been a railway track from Creon to Sauveterre de Guyenne. We learned of this during coffe time from a lorry driver from Norbert Dentressangle ( a British native). Before embarking on this route Shirley managed to fall off her bike once again as she cycled off the main road to join a cycle path. This started the frostiest time yet as Billy followed and after finding she was still alive declared 'can't understand why you did that!!!!' as Shirley lay prone across her bike huffing and puffing. There was a bit of silence after that. After repairing bike and body we reached the cycle route and enjoyed a very peaceful cycle through woodland, vineyards and even a railway tunnel (see photo). Arrived at Duras just before 5 pm for a pleasant night at the hotel where we first started cycling in France 11 years ago.

Distance: 88.8k

Jonzac to vincent de Paul

We left Jonzac after a thundery night and had a showery cycling day. Lunch in desirable bus shelter. (see photo) Lovely countryside through pine forests and rain which makes the sunflowers give off a very sweet perfume . Staying at chambre d'hote. in St.Vincent de Paul - delightful couple who are retired from producing wine. Husband driving us to restaurant for evening meal and back. No wifi so blog written in cafe in Bordeaux next day. Photos will be added later on friday as we are staying another night after our rest day in Bordeaux.

Saintes to Jonzac

Last night we had to dash back from our meal as the heavens opened with the first rain we have encountered. Lovely city with lots to see but we had important things to do today - retail therapy!!
(see photo of Billy in his new kit!!). We are now complete with extra padding French style and this brings a smile to our faces!
After shopping we headed off in the rain but we didn't care - we had comfortable bottoms! Coffee time was spent in yet another derelict village with just the usual 2 local characters in the bar. However one of them was wearing a Staid Francais pink rugby shirt and we managed to have a discussion about rugby in France and Scotland (Terry Mole will be very impressed with this). On going to pay this gentleman had adopted us as his friends and paid for us. Pleasant cycling even in rain and now the sun is shining and we are in the lovely town of Jonzac which has a beautiful chateau. Laundry done, blog completed, we're off to the bar. Keep commenting.
Distance:52.8k

Niort toSaintes

Today we decided to take it easy and not travel as far - BUT we actually did more than yesterday but it was much easier or we are getting more proficient!!!! Many eating places in France are still closed on Sunday evening apart from places like Mcdonalds. Hence last night we had to walk about a mile to a pasta joint in a place that looked like an industrial estate. Tonight we are in the lovely old city of Saintes on the Charente river. It is quite different and very beautiful. The cycling today was much easier although the wind was still very strong against us. The only incident of the day was when shirley nudged a billboard and fell off her bike. She was so excited to see some SHOPS! The only damage was to her front basket which has been squeezed back into shape. Great comments - they are keeping us going.

Ddistance: 77.1k

Chantonnay to Niort

This has been a bad hair day for both of us. It started last night when Billy stood up in our bedroom and hit his head on the window frame. We thought it was just wood but after 30 seconds of lying groaning in a sort of grown up way Billy decided he was lying in a pool of blood (the window frame had a metal closing spear which had cut his head). After being unable to stop the flow of blood and distributing it quite well round our room we decided to go to reception. He did look like something out of Chain Saw Massacre. He was attended to by the hotel staff in a very admirable way which is more than he can say about his wife. She was trying to be helpful but kept asking for a seat and a glass of water for herself (not good with blood!). After this was sorted we enjoyed a lovely evening and this morning we set off on our most difficult trip so far. In our first hour we only did 10 k, not helped by shirley falling off her bike and knackering her brake. As it was sunday and not a lot of lorries around we decided to travel down a major D road but it didn't help when shirley's chain came off. That took a bit of organising! By the end of the day we eventually left the Vendee and moved into the Deux Sevres region. (see photo)

Distance: 75.53 k

Vallet to Chantonnay

Without a detailed map of the area we had to follow the main road to Clisson (10k) and then we had a more detailed map to guide us on our way. Coffee break was spent watching two weddings in a village and we saw more in many villages en route to our destination. How many hills are in 1K? We don't know but today we thought there was a hell of a lot. Arrived in our destination town to discover tourist information office shut. However a very kind elderly gentleman expained several times where our hotel was. Needless to say we only understood 10% which was just as well as our bottoms were beginning to get very sore and we still had a further 5k to travel. The place we are staying in is beautiful and beside River Lay and had a swimming pool which can be seen by photo.

Distance: 74.4K

Villepot to Vallet

Had a very enjoyable dinner with Val,John, Simon and Sophie. Many different wine tastings throughout evening. Woke to sunshine again and thought it was about time we did some kilometres. John was going to cycle with us to the first major turn off but unfortunately we had to leave him by the roadside with his bike in a ditch as he had a puncture. We waved goodbye and thanked him for a glorious visit. Today's photograph shows us crossing the Loire River which has been the first major milestone on the trip. We have now left the maize fields behind and have moved into sunflower fields and vineyards. In fact tonight we are staying in Vallet,the capital of the Muscadet region - what could be nicer on a warm evening after a long hot cycle. Weather getting hotter but hope everyone reading this is enjoying the same weather.

distance: 84.2K

Janze to La Hee, Villepot

Left hotel around 9.30 and cycled to Martigne where we met John Mason for a coffee at the Hotel Commerce. We then cycled with him to his beautiful 16th century home near Villepot. Waiting there to greet us was Valerie his wife, Simon his son and his girlfriend Sophie. After looking over their fabulous home we enjoyed a very relaxing and leisurely French lunch in the garden under the shade of the trees.

Washing done, electrical gadgets charged up, we are now preparing for an excellent evening with them.

distance: 37k

Chateaugiron to Janze

Lovely town and lovely hotel but not such a lovely church clock which chimed every 15 minutes all night. It was a long night.
We took the bus to Rennes today and spent the morning strolling round the city which has some very beautiful old architecture. After lunch we returned to the hotel and cycled to Janze along very quiet lanes and hardly any hills. There is no wifi in hotel so this will be posted a day late when we are visiting John and Valerie Mason who have moved from Buckinghamshire and bought a property in Villepot in rural France. We will be glad to see them for many reasons, one of which is that we have brought the wrong adaptor for all our electrical things - we have the one for USA and Australia!!!! I can only put it down to moving house before we came away and I could only find one adaptor so thought it must be the French one.

Distance: 14k